Autumn fun in Montréal: A three-day itinerary
Montréal reaches its apex of charm in the autumn months. The weather is ideal for wandering the streets, the leaves are aglow with orange and crimson, and the food harvest offers all sorts of local products to sample. Here are some ideas on what to see and do for three days this autumn!
Day 1: Meander Old Montréal
With its postcard-perfect setting, immersing yourself in the beautiful cobblestone streets of Old Montréal and strolling along the banks of the St. Lawrence River is a “must do” autumnal activity. Get your caffeine fix and a fresh croissant on Notre-Dame West at Tommy Café or Crew Collective & Café, and revel in its exquisite architecture. Pick up a delicious pastry from Olive + Gourmando, a hotspot that has earned its reputation.
Next, stroll along Saint-Paul Street where creative designers, curated brands and cool art galleries await. Especially worthy is the magnificent Maison Pepin boutique, a creative lab and wellness retreat, and SSENSE (Saint-Sulpice Street), the amazing concept boutique whose concrete design and sublime café boast oodles of wow factor. Stroll over to Swell & Ginger and OFF THE HOOK and discover the cream of the crop of Québec's top luxury designers at Sarah Pacini and Philippe Dubuc.
Experience elevation in a Grande Roue de Montréal gondola, which promises a 28-kilometre view in clear weather. Alternatively, kick back and relax on a floating boat with spa, otherwise known Bota Bota, spa-sur-l’eau, anchored in the St. Lawrence River, and enjoy the reinvigorating water circuit, sumptuous autumn gardens, and a snack at La Traversée. Continue your journey to an extraordinary activity with Les Forges de Montréal, a venue featuring exhibitions, workshop tours, demonstrations and training in traditional blacksmithing.
Afterward, you can take it to the PHI Centre for avant-garde exhibitions, visit the Pointe-à-Callière Archaeology and History Complex, and for a more in-depth look at the neighbourhood, delve into our guide to Montréal's French roots.
Come happy hour, enjoy a glass of wine with some Italian appetizers for two inside the lovely Italian buvette Un Po di Più (interior design by Zébulon Perron), then check out the neighbourhood’s trendy restaurants for autumnal dishes that dazzle: Le Club Chasse et Pêche, Portus 360, Helena, Monarque, Hà, Venice, Santos, Vieux-Port Steakhouse, Graziella, L'Auberge Saint-Gabriel, Kyo Bar Japonais, Holder, LOV McGill, Le Serpent, Babacool, Bazart, Pincette, or even Sauvage.
Speaking of food, if you truly want to celebrate the autumn harvest, consider prescheduling a culinary workshop at the Ateliers & Saveurs cooking school — where culinary pleasures, education, and laughter are all on the menu.
Finally, make your way back to your Old Montréal hotel, a beacon of comfort inside old stone walls. Book a room at Hôtel William Gray, Hôtel Gault, Hôtel Place d’Armes or Le Petit Hôtel — all absolute gems of Old Montréal.
Day 2: Downtown, Verdun, and then to the market
Looking for gifts — even if the recipient is yourself? You’re in the right city. Head below to the underground boutiques and connect to major shopping malls like the Centre Eaton, Place Montréal Trust, Cours Mont-Royal, Place Ville Marie or the Complexe Desjardins. Prefer browsing outdoors? You’ll find a treasure trove of shops along Sainte-Catherine Street, which also connect you to most shopping centres. Lastly, indulge in a little luxury at the recently-renovated Holt Renfrew Ogilvy, a chic must-see.
If the autumn months bring rainy weather, discover the great indoors at one of the many cutting-edge exhibitions at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, the McCord Stewart Museum, or the Musée d’art contemporain at Place Ville Marie. Alternatively, check out the immersive experiences currently on at OASIS immersion at the Palais des congrès de Montréal.
In the afternoon, head to Montréal’s dynamic southwest district for exploration — just steps away from the St. Lawrence River. Kick off your tour on Promenade Wellington, voted the world’s coolest street according to TimeOut in 2022. This charming street in Verdun is full of enchanting spots and well-kept secrets (though, not as secret as before). Order a glass of natural wine at Verdun Beach and enjoy freshly harvested ingredients, or sample classic neighbourhood fare at Palco and the Benelux microbrewery.
Next head to the Lachine Canal to enjoy its green spaces by bike, pleasure boat, or on foot. Consider a sunset paddle with H2O Adventures or stop for a late-afternoon nosh of autumn classics — such as apples and pears — in the bohemian ambiance of the Atwater Market.
For dinner, head to Notre-Dame Street West to check out its gourmet bistros. With a high concentration of celebrated chefs, the toughest part of the day will be selecting a restaurant. Our recommendations include Vin Papillon, Liverpool House, Joe Beef, Restaurant Mignon, Nora Gray, Candide, or Perles et Paddock. Bon appétit!
Day 3: Mount Royal and a couple foodie neighbourhoods
Mount Royal is a symbol of the city’s identity. Inaugurated in 1876, Mount Royal Park was conceptualized by Frederick Law Olmsted—the same guy who designed New York’s Central Park. The marvellous urban green space features over 200 hectares of astonishing biodiversity and natural beauty. And in autumn, the park is a colourful paradise.
The Olmsted Trail is the most popular trail in the park, enabling the perfect route for foliage photography. The crushed-gravel pathway offers the width of a two-lane road, making it spacious enough to honour social distancing guidelines. Head to the Kondiaronk Belvedere at the summit of the mountain. This is the perfect place for views over the city, the requisite selfie, and images of blazingly red autumn leaves. For a longer walk, do the loop that surrounds the Mount Royal Cross, an LED-illuminated, 103-foot-tall steel crucifix that was first erected in 1924.
After walking on the mountain, wander through the neighbourhood of Mile End. Earning its name as being a “mile’s end” from what was once the city’s northern limits, the neighbourhood is often said to be the cultural heart of the city. This is where residents flock to grab Italian-style coffee (third-wave shops abound, too) and food from one of the dozens of “fast casual” restaurants that line the streets: slices of pizza, Vietnamese-style ice cream, Greek doughnuts, gnocchi in Chinese take-out boxes, and more.
To really dive deep into Mile End culture, consider pre-booking a walking tour. A few options include classics tours by MTL Detours or 16/42 Tours, with more food-centric options available through Local Montréal Tours. Furthermore, the Museum of Jewish Montréal also offers their own tours, with ’Round Table Tours focusing exclusively on Jewish food
Next, head a few blocks north to the neighbourhood of Little Italy. Without a doubt, the star of this neighbourhood is the magnificent Jean-Talon Market. Grab a coffee and wander among colourful stands that will likely inspire you to start sampling. For a bit of shopping, check out the recently revamped Plaza St-Hubert, a refreshing mix of on-trend and traditional boutiques that certainly switches up the shopping experience.
Finally, it’s time for dinner. It’s no secret that Little Italy and Villeray offer a bounty of culinary delights on tucked-away terraces. We recommend such restaurants as Impasto, Jaja,Casavant, Mesón and Tapeo. For an after-dinner drink, opt for libations at Taverne Atlantic, Vices & Versa’s hidden outdoor patio, or Italian-inspired Bar Cicchetti. Call it a night with a leisurely stroll around the lovely pond at Parc Jarry to digest your meal(s). Or complete you visit with a truly emblematic Montréal experience: a poetic circus performance at TOHU.
Daniel Baylis
Daniel Baylis is a writer, poet, and musician. Several years ago he moved to Montréal to chase silly bohemian dreams. And he’s still at it.
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