Villeray steps into the spotlight

Little Italy and Villeray
Place de Castelnau
Mark Andrew Hamilton

Mark Hamilton

What Villeray may lack in size, it more than makes up for with a unique personality all its own that’s not only long charmed local Montrealers, but also the editors of Time Out magazine’s lists of the coolest neighbourhoods in the world.

Villeray - Place de Castelnau piétonnisée

The lay of the land

Bordered on the east and west by leafy residential streets Garnier Street and Casgrain Avenue, and between the 40 Highway at its northernmost edge and Jean-Talon Street and the Jean-Talon Market to the south, Villeray shines as one of Montréal’s most up and coming quartiers. Founded as a town in 1896, Villeray was initially surrounded by the quarries that provided much of the needed stone for Montréal’s landmark architecture. Annexed to Montréal in 1905, Villeray has maintained its resourceful working class origins of stone workers and entrepreneurs, developing a flavour unlike anywhere else in the city. Villeray is also home to the Japanese Canadian Cultural Centre of Montréal, the meeting place for the city’s Japanese community (their annual outdoor market also transforms Rousselot Street into a genuine slice of Japan). And talk about easily accessibleno less than three métro stations stop within its borders.

Villeray - Ruelle verte

Villeray musts

Villeray’s charms lie in its people and independent businesses, from its picturesque parks to its curved apartment staircases. The neighbourhoods charming green spaces range from the smaller Park Turin and Park Prévost, to the arrondissement’s green heart Parc Villeray. A walk down Jarry, de Castelnau (pedestrianized in the summer months) and Villeray Streets reveal that original village gung-ho spirit and creativity in its independent boutiques and eateries. And there’s few finer spots for people watching and taking in a bustling Montréal neighbourhood than at one of Villeray’s trendy cafés.

Soak in the local culture

  • Maison de la culture Claude-Léveillée (911 Jean-Talon Street East): With a rich programme of exhibitions, dance and performance, and studio space available for local artists the Maison de la culture Claude-Léveillée is a neighbourhood hub for practicing artists and art lovers. The in-house café is also a good spot to rest and read.
  • HANGAR 7826 (7826 Foucher Street): HANGAR 7826 is tucked away in the ruelle, exhibiting works by artists encompassing full consideration of the space. And while the space itself may be small, the expansive ideas within always leave an impression.
  • Les Ateliers C (7901 Henri-Julien Avenue): Offering art making classes for adults and children, Les Ateliers C’s experienced instructors share their skills in a brightly lit and welcoming workspace. There’s also a virtual gallery showing off some of the pieces made in previous classes.
  • Villeray Art Society (7585 Saint-Hubert Street): More than a gallery space, the Villeray Art Society brings together local artists and art lovers in regularly scheduled events and showings.
  • Ruelles verts à VSP (throughout the neighbourhood): To truly experience Villeray’s rare community spirit requires leaving the main streets and heading for the alleyways, many converted into gathering lanes closed to automobile traffic as part of Montréal’s ruelles verts program. Villeray is home to some of the most enchanting in the city, and there’s magic to be found through exploring off the beaten track.
Petite Italie et Villeray - Comptoir Sainte-Cécile

Food and drink, Villeray style

  • Chateau Maneki (740 Crémazie Boulevard East): Combining the Québec casse-croûte with the Japanese izakaya, Chateau Maneki is one of Villeray’s most unforgettable dining experiences. Housed in a blue and pink castle, Maneki’s specialties include pressed sushi cut into small rectangles and fresh tartars. There’s also soft serve and drinks served in pig-shaped glasses, so clearly a must-visit.
  • Pho Bếp Cuisine Viet (608 Jarry Street East): Montréal’s Vietnamese community shines in its multiple eateries across the city, and Pho Bếp’s Villeray location stands out with its authentic flair and fresh flavours. The sides menu in particular adds that extra something special to go with the just-so spiced pho and vermicelli dishes.
  • Café Velours (373 Villeray Street): Focused on bio products and local initiatives, Café Velours is a volunteer-run gathering place for Villeray’s queer and allied community. Regularly scheduled events including musical performances make for a good time both during the day and at night. Founded by former employees of the legendary Baklawa Café—which long operated from the same location—the Café Velours continues the tradition in continuing to serve up some of the city’s best baklava treats.
  • Lahmajoune Villeray (420 Failon Street East): Drawn from over 40 years of experience, the bakers at Lahmajoune Villeray specialize in Middle Eastern treats both savoury and sweet. And the name truly fits—their lahmajounes are great!
  • Le Petit Alep Bistro (191 Jean-Talon Street East): A casual off-shoot of ALEP, Le Petit Alep Bistro offers Middle Eastern cuisine with a skilled touch. Small eat plates perfect for sharing include mouhamara, labneh, yalandji and sabanegh, while mains feature braised lamb and kebabs. In the warmer months, the outdoor terrasse is always buzzing.
  • Etna Pastificio (224 Jarry Street East): Etna Pastificio’s mouthwatering freshly-made pastas and natural wine selection guarantee a fine evening at home, but their wares are best served up by the in-store pros who serve a limited lunch service weekdays from noon-2 p.m. Check the weekly specials including the likes of squash, brown butter and ricotta cappellacci served in sage butter.
  • Osteria Gallo (7950 Saint-Hubert Street): Homestyle Italian meals and pizzas rosse and bianche served with a warm attention to detail make for an excellent choice for a refuelling dinner stop.
  • Comptoir Sainte-Cécile (232 de Castelnau Street East): The counter-serve menu at Comptoir Sainte-Cécile features smoked sausage sandwiches, beet salad and almond tartlets for dessert. There’s also a selection of ready-to-eat take-home options including soups, quiches and pastas. A one-stop shop for now or later!
Avanaa Chocolat - Intérieur, produits
  • Casavant (350 de Castelnau Street East): A gourmet and cozy spot with a flair for seafood including fresh oysters, scallops with chorizo and halibut from the Gaspésie region served with clams, chanterelles and corn. Grab a table on the terrasse and watch the neighbourhood stroll by.
  • Ferlucci Coffee Shop (432 De Castelnau Street East): Promising “good times, great coffee,” Ferlucci is more than just one of Villeray’s preferred cafés. Named for the Ferlucci Jeans brand founded here in 1980, it also pays tribute to the city’s Italian immigrants and that proud history makes an appearance in the decor. Their small boutique sells branded hoodies, their house espresso blend, old school diner mugs and branded Ferlucci mini bag sculptures by artist Pascualita Lien inspired by the Wes Anderson film The Darjeeling Limited.
  • Café Vito (151 Villeray Street): A popular entry point into the neighbourhood, Café Vito’s exterior is always busy with locals, refuelling cyclists and soccer fans on the edge of their seats and toes to catch team Italy in action.
  • Miss Villeray (220 Villeray Street): You won’t want to miss a photo op with Miss Villeray’s iconic neon sign, and the locals inside are just as welcoming at this local watering hole that’s been a gathering spot for the neighbourhood since 1960.
  • Restaurant Moccione (380 Villeray Street): A pinnacle of Italian cuisine, Restaurant Moccione offers up hearty plates of home-made pasta, freed courgette flowers and tender balls of mozzarella. There’s also a small epicerie selling their in-house gelato, sauces, sausages and toques.
  • Restaurant Pachamama (7245 Saint-Hubert Street): Serving traditional Peruvian foods like tiraditos, ceviches and tallarines, Restaurant Pachamama sits at the heart of Montréal’s self-proclaimed La Alameda Peruana (or Little Peru).
  • Avanaa Chocolat (309 Gounod Street): Featuring bean to bar production through links with small cacao farms, Avanaa Chocolat makes some of the best bars around. But don’t just take our word for it – their creations have taken home medals in the international International Chocolate Awards. Plus, their cacao husk infused teas are true originals.
  • Knuckles Cantine & Vins (241 Jarry Street East): Grab one of the house specialty “knuckles” (stuffed panzerotti) and some expertly curated natural wine – the perfect refuel for a neighbourhood exploration.
  • Le P’tit Atelier, boulangerie & pâtisserie (427 Jarry Street East): Breads, sweets and sandwiches are some of the main attractions at this neighbourhood bakery, with a few seats for a quick break or some laptop time.
  • Rawesome (151 Gounod Street): Specializing in vegan cheese cakes, Rawsome’s delectable slices, cashew cheeses and creams are to die for. (But really, please don’t. There’s so much more left to see and eat!)
  • Baristello (709B Jarry Street East): Guaranteeing a genuine Italian coffee experience, Baristello also pays tribute to its home quartier with its Villeray Blend, available for purchase and mail order.
  • Café Larue & Fils (244 De Castelnau Street East): A neighbourhood hot spot (now with three locations), Café Larue & Fils makes for a perfectly situated caffeination stop-off.
  • Cantine Emilia (7901 Saint-Dominique Street): Hearty Portuguese comfort eats, sure to leave you stuffed to the brim with traditional flavours and generous sides.
Boutique Articho - Poterie atelier chez Articho

Get your shop on

  • La Halte Ludique (374 de Castelnau Street East): One of the city’s best stocked board game shops, La Haute Ludique has something for everyone. And if you’re looking to game during a Montréal visit, their regularly scheduled gaming clubs are for you, although if you win too big you may find yourself run out of town.
  • Chez l’Éditeur (7240 Saint-Hubert Street): Well-stocked with Québec literature and a cozy space to peruse through them, Chez l’Éditeur is also home to Café 8oz. offering the perfect setting to sit and read after you’ve picked your next read.
  • Boutique Articho (300 Villeray Street): Offering a carefully collected selection of ceramics, jewellery, soaps and cosmetics and baby wear, Boutique Articho is the perfect spot to find that special something for someone back home.
  • Archive Montréal (318 Villeray Street): Specializing in minimalist chic, Archive Montréal offers the latest looks for men and women, jewellery and housewares. Local names hang on the racks next to international brands like Naked and Famous and Anian.
  • Magasin Général de Castelnau (337 De Castelnau Street East): Raising the bar for general stores, the Magasin Général de Castelnau features artisanal local products and a wide selection of microbrews in a beautiful wooden fridge. You’ll find it impossible to leave empty-handed.
  • Anfibio Boots (175 Villeray Street): Designed and hand-made in Montréal, Anfibio Boots (and jackets and bags to boot, pun intended) not only protect you from the elements, but look darn good doing it too.
  • La Maison de l’Astronomie (8074 Saint-Hubert Street): Everything you’d ever need for a night of stargazing, La Maison de l’Astronomie is your one-stop shop for telescopes, binoculars and night vision.
  • Dumoulin Bicyclettes (173 Jean-Talon Street East): Fit in like a local with a folding bike from Dumoulin Bicyclettes, then take it home as carry-on!

Original article in English by Mark Hamilton, adapted into French by Alex Gauthier.

Mark Andrew Hamilton

Mark Hamilton

Mark Hamilton is the community director for QueerMTL, an internationally-touring musician with his projects Woodpigeon and Frontperson  and a graduate studies student of history researching LGBTQ+ activism in the city. He’s lived in Montréal since 2015, during which time he’s most often spotted atop a BIXI bike usally running a few minutes late.

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